Merry Christmas & Happy New Year

Finally got a White Christmas! First time in 29 years and well worth it - it was just like the movies.

Craig and I flew up to Quebec City on the 24th with only an hour delay. The day before there had been huge winter storms on the East Coast of Canada (Montreal and onwards). Combine this with the busiest travel time in North America and apparently it was chaos. Flights were cancelled and delayed so we were quite surprised that pretty much it was all sorted out by the next afternoon.

We had been worried about Craig's Dad who was travelling from Calgary to Montreal on the 23rd and was catching a train from Montreal to Quebec on the 24th. Due to the fact that he had accidentally turned his phone off, we couldn't get through to him. Fortunately we found him safe and sound at the hotel when we arrived.

The hotel, the Hotel Chateau Bellevue had been recommended to me by a colleague. It turned out that it a small boutique hotel right on the St Lawrence River and next to the famous Fairmont Chateau Frontenac. At a third of the price of the Frontenac, we couldn't really go wrong.

We found the one and only place that was open for dinner on Christmas Eve (as being close to the Europeans the Quebecans celebrate Christmas at midnight and have the dinner on the 24th). We were delighted to discover the Quebec tradition of the Gastronomique menu - you pay around $12 extra for a soup, entree, main and dessert than just for the main itself. The portion sizes are smaller but at least you get a taste of everything and better value for money.

After the boys retired to bed, I decided to go to Midnight Mass at the local Cathedral - The Basilique Notre-Dame. It was more for me to look at the architecture and the artwork, but I had also promised Mum. I thought I did pretty well following along the Mass in French but was disappointed that the Hail Mary was not said. This is in fact the only thing I remember from 3rd form French as we had to say it everyday. It would have been my only opportunity to show off my knowledge.

The next morning - Christmas Day, turned out to be a beautiful one. There was snow on the ground and it was brilliantly sunny. Because it was so cold there were ice crystals hovering in the air. So we wandered around the city (cautiously as the freezing rain on the 23rd had left an inch thick layer of ice everywhere ). We discovered that the St Lawrence river which only had a few icebergs the night before was almost frozen over.

We walked up around the Citadel along the river and to the Plains of Abraham where there was many big battles between the Frnech and the British until the final one in 1759 when the British took over the city. It is now a really lovely park, and the kids were sledding down the hills and the adults go cross-country skiing.

Because Quebec City is uber cold (-10 to -27 degrees and a huge amount of windchill from the river) you can't stay outside too long. We made a pitstop at a franchised coffee shop for Chocolate Chaud (hot chocolate) and hot apple cider with actual cinnamon sticks in them. Very yummy and traditional. Then to complete the meal we went back to the Frontenac to have Fondue for lunch. This was finished with some "Taffy on the Snow" on the promenade outside the hotel.

This is made by putting treacle on snow packed in troughs, let to freeze, and then you roll up the frozen stuff on an ice-block stick to eat. Just like frozen golden syrup.

Christmas dinner was at the Aux Anciens Canadiens - a building that had been there since 1675. We had another Gastronmique meal of traditional Qubecoise fare for a change from the usual Turkey. Craig had Caribou Stew, Ray had traditional Quebec stew and I had pheasant. All very yummy and very memorable.

Boxing Day was also special. In the afternoon we had decided to go for a dog sledding expedition. We didn't know what to expect but we were bundled up in uber warm clothing (our Toronto and Australian clothing doesn't stand a chance) and we were then greeted by 220 noisy dogs. This afternoon we had the smaller and faster huskies (6 to a sled). The malamuts that had been out in the morning are larger and stronger, but slower. THere are only 4 to a sled when they are on. Craig had his Dad were in one sled and I was with a guide. It is amazing how as soon as the dogs start to run, they immediately go silent. Thy certainly love to run and I thought of Baxter (Michelle's dog who also loves to run and would be right at home here). Everyone takes turns being in the sled and underneath a sleeping bag, and of driving. It is actually quite easy in this situation as the trails are marked and you only have to operate the brakes so that the dogs don't go up the next sleds bum. The only tricky thing is if the sled starts to stray and you have to lean over with all your strength to get the sled back on a straight line. All in all, it was another perfect day and going through the snowy forest was just magical.

I had decided to go skiing at the local Mt St Anne the next day (first time since I had first stuffed up my leg) and so Craig decided to also join me. The skiing was fabulous - big long runs and soft snow. However, it was cold - I thought my nose was going to drop off. Craig also had difficulties since this was only his second time snowboarding , so after many falls he called it a day (but not too bad at 2.00pm). Fortunately my leg was pretty much up to the task - it even finally fitted into the boots - just! We were planning on going night skiing, but could not find a cheapish way back into town. I am kind of glad we didn't because I think we would have frozen.

The next morning, Ray left Quebec City on the train back to Montreal and on to New York as it was closer for him to see the coast from this neck of the woods. Craig and I wandered around the Christmas Shops (they were AMAZING) and I bought a Frosty the Snowman snowglobe.

New Years was also nice and quietish. We found that just the (very few) liquor stores were crowded but I don't think people tend to do too much for it. I guess it is the weather that makes people a little more subdued. Craig and I and our Ozzie Friends just decided to go to the local pub (before the cover charge came in effect), had a few beers and watched the band. It was all very enjoyable and we came home safely (well 3/4 of us).

So now it is 2005! Who would have believed that we came through the other side of all the things we went through in 2004! It has been a rather humbling yet rewarding experience - but not too sure if we want to try the same thing again (although we think that this is inevitable). Catch you next time